RESTAURANT REVIEW- Tsunami

A cornerstone of the Cooper-Young District, Tsunami (928 South Cooper Street, www.tsunamimemphis.com) has established itself as one of the most unique dining experiences in Memphis. Founder, owner, and head chef Ben Smith has devoted himself to captivating diners with his talents for many years, and so when it was my wife’s birthday, Tsunami was the place we chose for her special night.
The first thing you should know about Tsunami is that it is a lively place. Driving past it on any given night, the window tables are full of diners, and the tables themselves are packed with wine glasses and dishes. Walking into the restaurant can be quite intimidating, as your first step is basically into the bar where guests are boisterous and greet you even before the hostess can. On this night, a Saturday, the place was packed and the dining room was loud, which takes a lot for me to say because no place is usually too loud for my likings.
The décor of Tsunami is impressive. Every decoration supports the theme of the restaurant, which is Pacific Rim cuisine, and no detail is left spared. Our table was a small, cozy table by a wall towards the back of the restaurant. If you make reservations, (as I had but did not know) I would suggest that you request a window table. The tables face Cooper which can be very fun people-watching.
Our server was very sweet and capable. She was accommodating, even adjusting the thermostat for my wife, but her service was not what I would consider professional, as she used casual and lax comments with us, such as, “That’s awesome,” but she did a great job overall.
The wine list is in-depth, with many choices, but nothing too far off the beaten path. Tsunami does offer a nice selection of splits, which is great because my wife drinks white, and I usually drink red, so we both got our own half-bottle.
For appetizers, we were going to have Shrimp and Tasmanian Sweet Crab Ceviche and Chilled Avocado Soup with Pico de Gallo, but we were told by our server that they were out of both items. Instead, we ordered the Sake Steamed Mussels in Thai Red Curry Sauce and the Crispy Calamari with Chipotle Aioli.
The calamari was fresh and well prepared. No risks were taken in this dish, just like fried calamari anywhere else, but the quality of it was apparent. And the portion was enormous. They could actually cut the portion in half and it would still be a lot of food. The mussels were forgettable. The mussels themselves were tough, and the sauce had no flavor. I usually relish in a big bowl of steamed mussels, wanting to sop up every bit of broth with bread, but not this sauce. It was bland and tasteless.
For dinner, my wife ordered the Spice Crusted Tuna on Cucumber Salad with Wasabi Vinaigrette, and I, though knowing I should have thought better of ordering a steak at a restaurant known for great seafood and fish, ordered the Marinated Grilled Ribeye with cornmeal crusted onion rings. The server supported the choice, telling me it was probably her favorite thing on the menu. I am a strong proponent that any chef must be proud of each and every item on his menu and would not prepare anything sub-par, just to provide a red-meat option for his guests. But my ribeye was anything but good. The one positive was that it was cooked to temperature, but that was the only positive. The marinade tasted like a fish rub, and it was served with mashed potatoes and sautéed vegetables. My plate looked more like something from Piccadilly than a fine restaurant. Even the plate itself was bland. They serve all of their other dishes on exciting and interesting porcelain saucers that shape the dish, but my steak was brought out on a nine-inch round white plate. It was disappointing. I enjoyed my mashed potatoes more than the meat. The tuna, on the other hand, was phenomenal. It was cooked perfectly to my wife’s specifications (rare), and the crust was the perfect thickness and crispness. The fish melted in your mouth, and the cucumber salad was a perfect match. The dish is highly recommended, and when I return to Tsunami, I will be ordering that and not red meat.
In the scheme of restaurants, Tsunami is a good restaurant, but another visit would have to convince me that it is a great restaurant. The establishment has a solid following, and it is beloved by most diners in Memphis, but with a check that totaled over $150, I can think of other local restaurants where I would rather spend my next special occasion.

2.5 out of 5 stars
Category of Fine Dining (Level 4)